For Better or For Worse

As our time living in Lagos comes to an end, I reflect on why I love the city so much. And I think I've finally figured it out. No matter who you are or where you come from, you must to some degree submit to the reality that is Lagos...for better or for worse.

Let's take the most obvious example: traffic. For those who enjoy the daily Lagos commute, the "go slows" take no prisoners. Most wait for crowded, un-air conditioned buses only to sit in traffic for 3 hours or more. Those lucky enough to have their own car (and possibly a driver) sit in the same traffic, though the air conditioner provides some relief for the long wait. The only way to get around traffic is by motorcycle taxi (okada)...an affordable option open to everyone.

NEPA, Nigeria's less than reliable electricity provider, also shows no favorites. Everyone is connected to NEPA and pays for its services whether they are provided or not. Those not willing to deal with 3-day electricity outages may run generators paying for the diesel themselves. And even those lucky ones not having to pay for their generator backup services become accustom to random bouts of cut electricity, lost computer work, wear on appliances, and low (or no) water pressure as a result.

Though Brian and I lived in the "Beverly Hills of Lagos," it did not mean we weren't confronted daily with the poverty that is a reality for many. In a book I read recently, the author mentioned that in Lagos poverty slaps you in the face...no matter who you are or where you come from, you can't hide from it. Unlike the States where poverty is often confined to certain areas of the city which can be easily avoided, poverty in Lagos is alive and well and on display for everyone to see.

With all its contradictions and chaos, Lagos is what it is, doesn't put on a show, and doesn't play favorites. It has beautiful beaches which are open to most everyone; it has traffic that shows no mercy for even its richest inhabitants; and the harshness of life envelopes you (though some to a higher degree than others). Lagos is unlike any other city I've known; it looks like no other city, works like no other city, and stays with you like no other city...for better or for worse.