Baba-Nyonya Pride

I'm not so sure our Indian friend from my previous blog would vie much better in Malaysia. While Chinese–Singaporeans prefer to deal with their own in business relationships, Chinese–Malaysian (known endearingly as Baba–Nyonya) are among the most successful businessmen and Malaysia's richest residents. As evidenced by Melaka's Baba–Nyonya house-turned-museum, its sheer size and international flare on display leaves little doubt of Baba–Nyonyas' influence, affluence, and stories of success.

Malaysia's population has been influenced by and integrated with other cultures for centuries. From the Jawi (Tamil–Muslim Malay) to the Chitty (Tamil–Hinu Malay), mixed heritage is a reality for many living in Malaysia. But it is quite obvious which Peranakan group lays claim as the "true" people (or at least the most prominent) of Malaysia, even more so than native Malays – the Baba–Nyonya. Literally translated as "Grandfather–Grandmother," Baba–Nyonya tradition dominates much of Malaysian and Singaporean culture. Identifiable by their batik sarong kebaya (the nyonya's attire of choice) and famous for their multi-cultural cuisine (fusioned flavors which include coconut milk, pandan leaf, and lemon grass to name a few), Baba–Nyonya heritage is easily identifiable and loudly pronounced.

And prideful they are! Even here in Singapore, the local television network broadcasts a weekly comedy that spotlights, plays with, and exaggerates the uniqueness and stereotypes that come with Baba–Nyonya pride. Sayang Sayang (meaning "dear" or "love" in Malay) follows one Peranakan family as they compete for the family business, challenge each others' "Nyonya" skills in a kueh chang-making contest, don traditional Baba–Nyonya batik, and even publish a Peranakan dictionary (Chinese Peranakan of course).

Though Peranakan refers to people of any mixed ethnic origin, Peranakan pride means Baba–Nyonya on the Indochinese Penninsula.

***The first picture above is courtesy of Singapore's Peranakan Museum. The second picture displays kueh chang, Nyonya rice dumplings.

My Malaysia

For those planning a trip to Singapore, might I suggest 2 no-misses while in the area. Easy to get to and quite a contrast to Singapore's cement jungle, Melaka and KL should top your list.


A 4-hour bus ride puts you right where history (or at least colonialist history) began in this area of the world. Melaka was Singapore before Singapore was Singapore as the major stop off point for those heading East to West. An active port in its heyday, Melaka was frequented and settled by Chinese merchants, then occupied by the Portuguese, Dutch, and English before gaining independence in 1957. Remnants of these multi-national influences are impeccably preserved in present-day Melaka. With its outstanding shopping, quaint small-town feel, and rich but modest historical sites, Melaka deserves a day or 2 even for self-proclaimed city slickers.

Two more hours on buses departing every 15 minutes (what could be more convenient than that) puts you up-close and personal with hands-down the most beautiful buildings on earth...the Petronas Towers. Standing like wedding day brides side-by-side, these towers dominate the KL skyline. But that's not all KL has to offer: a birdpark that "out-birds" Singapore's open-air aviary; the Batu Caves that challenge even the most fit with its 272-step climb; and Little India's weekend night market that rivals the chaos found in "Big" India.

Accessible, unique, historically rich, yet often overshadowed by close-by Thailand and Singapore, these Malaysian cities provide "quality" time for all their visitors.

Foreign Flavors

No trip would be complete without sampling the local cuisine. That is half of holiday fun! And along with the familiar, there are certain to be foreign flavors worth sampling.

Being the stepchild of the Indo-Chinese peninsula, I had low expectations for Cambodian cuisine. Bland, rice-based imitations of the Thai's flavorful food was what I expected. Boy was I surprised. Amok and glassnoodle salad were favorites of mine in Cambodia. Using lemongrass, coconut milk, chili, and cilantro, these Khmer cuisines tantalized my taste buds and were favorites of mine on the trip. Pineapples and coconuts were a plenty and used for drinks, flavoring, served whole, or as a garnish. As for the more "local" snacks, fried spiders and and silk worms (tasting of nuts and milk) were offered to us along the way.

In Vietnam Pho Bo was an obvious expectation. But for breakfast?? As I soon found out, this noodle and beef soup is not served for dinner, only for the lighter meals of the day. More appropriate for the evening meal were the pancakes (yep, not a breakfast item here). These flour or egg based wrappings (you choose) were more like mini, deep fried tacos than the doughy sweetness of their American counterparts.

For those wanting a continental breakfast rather than traditional Vietnamese soup, there is a culinary surprise for you...the best baguettes I've ever had! Served with butter or jam, the Vietnamese have the French to thank for this addition to their culinary repertoire. Served alongside a glass of iced coffee sweetened with condensed milk (the typical serving method), it is a breakfast both Westerners and Easterners can enjoy.

War Remnants Museum

This particular topic is emotionally charged to say the least. What I write below are only my perceptions from a post-Vietnam generation perspective. As my parents suggest, people growing up and living through the Vietnam War may have different perspectives than my own. And I welcome comments to this regard!

I should have braced myself for the grand entrance into a communist nation, not to mention a nation that doesn't exactly call Americans friends. Perhaps it's because the Cold War is over and the communist era has taken a backburner to other international issues, I expected Saigon to be alive with all modern conveniences, industry-ready, and tourist friendly. After all, they are opening a Hard Rock Cafe–Saigon this month!

Though modern in many ways, this former South Vietnam stronghold seems to exude sadness. Few smiles are seen on the street; billboards display the hammer and sickle conspicuously alongside Vietnam's flag; and Saigon's main attraction (the Reunification Palace) stands as a daily reminder of communist presence (now reality) in Saigon. But what I saw on the streets did not prepare me for what I saw in the War Remnants Museum.

Formerly know as the Museum of American War Crimes (need I say more), its galleries bear names such as "Aggression War Crimes" and "Historical Truths" gallery (hmmm...can history really be considered "true"?). Within the walls of this museum were photos, captions, stories, and accounts of the atrocities committed by American soldiers during the American–Vietnam War.

True, there are always two sides to every story. But what disturbed me most wasn't what I saw. After all, American soldiers don't have the best reputation for playing fair during wartime. Rather, it was what I didn't see that upset me. There was no mention of South Vietnam as its own sovereign country. There was no mention of civil war. There was no mention of the fact North Vietnam killed their Southern counterparts, too. There was only mention of "liberating" the South from the hands of "the aggressor." It's as if the roots of the war were erased, South Vietnam never existed, and the reality for South Vietnamese was that of complete oppression by the United States.

The artifacts and exhibits themselves I found troubling as well. Captions for many photos created a picture of torturous, violent American soldiers injuring and killing innocent Vietnamese soldiers. At the risk of sounding pithy, this was war, people would die, and it wasn't just the Vietnamese who were dying. Also, many of the photos on display could be left open for interpretation. And with unattributed captions, could we really be so sure that the child was "begging the American soldier to not kill her father."

In content as well as presentation, the museum focused on grains of truth turning them into generalizations and reality. It amplified the actions of the "oppressor" while almost erasing North Vietnam's own participation in wartime activity. It didn't record history, it created history...a history that generations of Vietnamese will now come to know, learn, and believe.

Life Begins

Traversing the Cambodia–Vietnam border is like crossing from the United States into Mexico. The differences slap you in the face! Not expecting to see much contrast (after all, we were traveling by boat and how much can you really from a riverbank), it became immediately apparent just how different these two neighboring countries are.

Except for borders distinguished by mountains and oceans, I've always thought of territorial lines as a bit arbitrary. A random line drawn by someone a long time ago to distinguish what is mine from what is yours. But as you leave Cambodia and enter Vietnam, the river seems to know it's entering a whole new world. The wide-set banks quickly contract; the unchanging landscape becomes a smorgasbord of chaotic vegetation; and the desolate banks become centers of activity. I found myself wondering if we were on the same river!

Where life along the Mekong in Cambodia saw little activity, the lively banks of Vietnam are a testament to its expansive population (85 million to Cambodia's meager 15 million). Stilted houses sprinkle the Mekong all the way to Chau Doc. Rickety wooden boats with palm leaf canopies transport people and products down, up, and across the river. Those using less traditional methods of transport depend on river ferries to get them and their motorbikes from one side to the other. Even the rice fields come right up to the Mekong's waters.

With few expectations of what life and livelihood is like in Vietnam, traversing the border by boat gives you a taste for what is in store.

The Killing Fields

The following blog is a bit graphic in its description, so please read with caution.

For anyone taking a visit to Siem Reap, a quick trip to Phnom Penh is a must. If not for your own enrichment, for respect of those who died and acknowledgement of what the worst of humankind has done and still does

today.

S-21, the former Khmer Rouge security prison, was our first stop in Phnom Penh. Housed in a former high school (a concrete testament to Angkor's abhorrence of education and intellectuals), the prison remains much as it was 30 year ago. Barbed wire fences surround the make-shift prison; former classrooms are still divided into tiny bricked cells; wood-framed beds with plaited-metal surfaces alongside iron shackles...all hint at the recurrent tragedies that occurred within its walls for almost 4 years.

Outside, a wooden frame once used for student physical education stands inconspicuous to the uninformed observer. Angkor used this and the pots nearby for hanging and head dunking tortures. Though no prisoners remain, hundreds of prisoner mug shots taken upon entrance to S-21 morbidly reflect just how massive and tragic this 4-year period was. Of those not imprisoned, tortured, and executed in S-21, another fate threatened them just miles outside Phnom Penh. Barely clearing the city's limits lie hundreds of mass graves where thousands of Cambodians spent their last moments of life.

The Killing Fields stimulate all the senses with traces of what once happened. Immediately you notice a subtle yet omnipresent stench of decay. On the walk toward the mass grave sites, you must be careful where you step. Bones, teeth, tattered clothing, and other remains scatter the path. And if the immediacy of the smells and sights doesn't stir your heart, the sounds of times past will. Hanging near the holding sight where most awaited death were speakers that blared music. Music at an execution site may seems like a cruel irony. But bullets were a commodity so bludgeoning (evidenced by the hundreds of cracked skulls on display) was used as a more cost-effective method of execution. You see, the music was necessary to muffle the screams as hoes, hammers, and axe handles hit their victims.

Angkor took to heart its mantra "clearing grass, it shall dig its entire root off." Adjacent to the mass graves stands a tree where the "roots" of the family were destroyed. Soldiers would hold babies by their feet and swing the child's head at the tree. And for children not killed, they were recruited as Angkor soldiers to support the Khmer Rouge and commit these horrendous deeds.

Those who were not subjected to these philosophically-motivated atrocities had a fate of starvation and disease in the work villages of the Cambodian frontier. It was a time when no one was safe, everyone was suspect, and families were torn apart. It was a time not to be forgotten.

Remembering the Past

While visiting Cambodia, it is easy to get caught up in the sight-seeing bustle: temple touring, exquisite eating, and night-market souvenir shopping. But reality for the older generation is not a Cambodia prospering from tourism or educating its young for a multi-cultural, multi-lingual world. It is a Cambodia with a painful past.

Pol Pot and his Khmer Rogue regime came to power in 1975. The transfer of political leadership was welcomed by most as the country sought an end to the looming civil war. Marching through Phnom Penh in victory, the black-clad Khmer Rogue soldiers were greeted at first with cheers. Within the week, however, the regime evacuated the entire city warning of impending American attacks to the city. They would return after 3 days when the city was safe, the soldiers told them. But most never saw their beloved home again. During the 4 years of Pol Pot's reign more than 2 million Cambodians (about 1/5 of the country's population) died...half by execution and half by disease or starvation.

As I visited the capitol city 30 year later, I looked into the eyes of many Cambodian locals and wondered what those eyes had seen. Were their parents executed? Were their children killed? How many bodies did they bury because of starvation? How close did they come to death themselves? For the younger generation, I wondered what they knew of their country's riddled past. Do they believe the accounts of those who lived through it? Or to them are they just stories?

When we tell our children what happened they don't believe us, our tour guide said. Only when they come to see (the Killing Fields, S-21) and learn it in school do they start to believe. And those who lived through it still wonder how fellow Cambodians could commit such acts against their own people. Of our tour guide's 50 relatives retained by Angkor (Pol Pot's ruling body), only 3 survived.

How quickly the world forgets, and forgetting begets repeating. That is why one survivor visits S-21 whenever time permits to tell his stories and show people the tragic history of his country. We were lucky enough to speak with him during our museum visit.

One of only 7* to survive the brutal torture of the notorious S-21 security prison, Chum Mey managed to avoid suspicion and accusation because of his mechanical prowess, fixing cars and other items for Angkor. But when friends were arrested, they falsely accused him as a mere matter of survival. CIA, was what his friend told Angkor, and our survivor was tortured until he admitted it, too. Electric shocks, hanging by hands tied from behind, and head dunking into pots of dung were common methods used for "persuading" accusations and confessions. Pol Pot's regime ended before our survivor met the fate of the 16,000 other prisoners held within S-21's walls.

Throughout the year, Chum Mey walks back into the same rooms and faces the brutal memories of those 2 years spent in S-21. If for no other reason than to acknowledge his experience, his nightmare, his pain, we must remember the past.

*According to Wikipedia, there were 12 known survivors of S-21. We were told 7 during our visit to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh.

Cambodia: The Personal Touch

Entering Cambodia is kind of like leaving Texas for Oklahoma. While Thailand boasts bustling cities, cultural prowess, and beautiful terrain, it is easy to see that Cambodia can't compete. But what Cambodia lacks in luster it makes up for in personality. You can't leave the country without feeling personally touched by the friendliness, genuineness, and kindness of the Cambodia people.

The terrain itself (unchanging landscape with rice paddies, palm trees, and little else) seems to foreshadow a dull and struggling existence. But the minute you interact on the personal level, you know you've crossed the border. Laughing, smiling, and genuinely curious and friendly, the Cambodian people make you feel welcome everywhere you go.

Though vendors persistently vie for your business in and around Siem Reap, a friendly decline will usually send them smiling about their way. One child approached me and asked where I was from. Being loyal to my home state, I said Texas of course. "Capitol Austin," he replied. A stream of child laughter followed from his friends in tow and a dumbfounded look on my face probably scared him away!

The "big city" of Phnom Penh is a mere shadow of what Bangkok offers. Though boasting a beautiful grand palace and a scattering of museums, this city of 2 million is a humble version of its rival capital to the west. But what Cambodia has to offer goes deeper than museums, monuments, and looks...just visit the Phnom Penh Grand Palace Promenade and you'll see. Residents sit on the lawn enjoying food purchased from nearby street vendors; local boys flip and dive off a metal embankment into the Tonle Sap river; an elephant stops traffic on the main thoroughfare between river and city and onlookers feed it bananas and water. The Cambodian people seem to run on a naturally up-beat pulse, enjoying life at every turn.

Family, friends, and general camaraderie seem to be of utmost priority. On weekends, groups of acquaintances meet to catch the local soccer match in a roadside field. Armed with blankets, snack, and drinks, hundreds sit as spectators while sharing each others' company. Even the size of families here pays tribute to the importance of relationships...a family of 5 is considered small by Cambodian standards!

Things run at a slow pace, but that doesn't mean service is slow or things don't get done. Cambodians are incredibly hard workers and know how to keep customers happy. Rarely do you wait more than 15 minutes for a meal, and on more than one occasion I was given too much change because the vendor didn't have the correct amount. On my final day in Siem Reap, I hired a tuk tuk driver to take me out on my own. Despite ominous clouds and torrential rain, he clad himself in an industrial-strength poncho, drove head-first into the downpour, and still opened my door with a smile.

In every situation, every location, and every person, you can't get away from Cambodia's personal touch.

The Stories of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat's claim to fame is its status as world's largest single religious monument. Coupled with the more than 200 intact wats that surround it, this is what attracts tourists (more than 2 million every year) to Siem Reap. But if you take your time, strolling through the wats, observing the people, and spending quiet time within its walls you'll find more than exquisitely detailed Khmer architecture here. The Temples of Angkor tell a story...a story of war and strife, a story of praise and destruction, a story of life as it was and life as it is. You see, even today, the Temples of Angkor are alive and ready to reveal their truths.

It is a story history, both in its construction and destruction. The extravagance and sheer scale of its construction reflect an unprecedented prosperity in Khmer history from the 9th to 14th centuries. But many years of neglect as the Khmer empire fell left the temples vulnerable to overgrowth and erosion. And later the destructive tendencies of wars and Pol Pot's regime left many temples a mere shadow of their once held beauty.

It is a story of religion, as it unfolded and changed. In its most obvious aspect, Angkor Wat served a religious purpose dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. But even its architectural layout is symbolic of the religious beliefs of the time. Built with three main levels (bottom for laymen, middle for religious officials, and top for royalty), it is indicative of deification of kings and high regard of religion. As you look closer, however, Hindu symbolism mixes with Buddhist representations in art and sculpting telling of the Khmer religious conversion in the late 13th century.

It is a story of innovation, in both character and technique. Though using familiar architectural schemas such as roman-like cylindrical columns and towered, castle-like structures, Khmer architecture is very much its own. Intricate carvings in every wall and crevice and tiered towers in cascading cone-like shapes make Angkor Wat's facade unmistakeably unique. Even the materials used, ranging from mountain-stock sandstone to bricks processed from termite hills, reflect innovative retrieval and creation methods.

It is a story of life, both past and present. The grounds once used as the commercial, political, religious, and monarchical center is the heartbeat of present-day Siem Reap. Children come out to play within its walls when the rain lures them out. They sing, tell stories, and build sandcastles resembling the cascading towers that surround them. Tuk tuk drivers, souvenir vendors, hotel owners, and restaurateurs depend on this massive tourist attraction for their living...and quite a living it is. (The people in Siem Reap seem comparatively more prosperous than in other parts of Cambodia.) Even today, rice paddies maintain their important agricultural status as they are interspersed between wats within the complex.

For us, the wats were "discovered" by the French 200 years ago. But for Cambodians, Angkor Wat has always been there telling its stories of the past and reflecting the stories of today.

Siamese Surprises

Whether you could take Bangkok or leave Bangkok, one thing is for certain...this Siamese city is certain to surprise.

From chaos to contemporary this city always seems to change. Despite its rather unorganized infrastructure, fast (and I mean really fast) internet was easy to find. Whether it be Thailand's push to keep up with the modern or the popularity of internet gaming among Thai youth, the quality of the internet cafes were some of the best I've seen. And though Chinatown and Ko Ratanakosin seem to reflect time of ole, take one step into Siam Square and the modern will maul you. Slick contemporary architecture, the latest in fashion, and restaurants where you want to be "seen" all find their home in Bangkok's business district and surroundings.

Though Siam Square is the sure bet for guaranteed good eats, elsewhere in Bangkok diamonds in the rough await. With a humble sign pointing down a dark alley in Chinatown, some of the best Indian food I've had awaited me. And with curiosity being key, I navigated serpentine alleys only to encounter some simple street food with riverview seating...a perfect afternoon meal.

On more than one occasion, taking a wrong turn turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Between the river and my hotel were 3 blocks of continuous flower vendors. Beautifully exotic and colorful arrangements of every shape and size seized the eye of even the most banal passerby. And when I was about to throw in the towel after Bangkok's less-than-navigable streets got the best of me, just a block away and over a bridge lie the Golden Mount...a Buddhist temple with a skyline view not to be missed!

Curiosities, cuisine, and unexpected cultural shrines are just a few of the surprises Siam has in store.

Thai-Ups

As you have probably gathered from my posts, I'm in love with Thailand...well, Bangkok at least. But let's be honest. There are still some things that makes it a bit undesirable for more than a vacation commitment.

Traffic: Whether you are in the car or out, traffic can be a major pain in Thailand's capitol city. On the way to dinner one night, I sat in a cab for 45 minutes with my end-point just in sight. As the meter reached the hour mark, I finally decided to bail..an easy 15-minute walk got me to my destination. But walking presents its own set of challenges. Crosswalks are mere suggestions to the speeding cars and motorbikes, and filled-up sidewalks require you to join traffic on the street more often than vendors on the sidewalk.

Attire: Though weather is conducive to flip flops and tank tops, these are not necessarily the best choices. Flip flops, though comfortable and cool, leave unsuspecting tootsies vulnerable to soiling and injury. Puddles of mysterious substances litter streets and sidewalks and often are deep enough to submerge an unsuspecting pedestrian foot. It's also a bit more hygenic to wear covered shoes onto the water-covered floors of squat toilets (for obvious reasons). And on more than one occassion while trying to cross the street, I nearly lost a couple toes to a speeding motorbike tire.

Tank tops present their own set of challenges, too. Sunscreen is an obvious essential for exposed shoulders. But more importantly, Wats, museums, and other tourist attractions often require ladies' shoulders and knees to be covered.

Scammers: Getting scammed is the easiest way to ruin a holiday. Lucky for me I did my homework before my visit to Bangkok...the same scam was tried on me 3 times! Being overly friendly and helpful, a local Thai (often a tuk tuk driver) will inform you that the attraction you wish to see is closed. (I was told the National Museum was not open, the Grand Palace was too crowded this time of day, and the Grand Palace was closed for "Buddha Day.") Fortunately, the local is happy to assist you. He knows of all the good Wats and attractions around the city that are open and is eager to transport you. Convenient enough.

In truth, the attraction you wished to see was in fact open, and the tuk tuk driver will take you on a LONG days excursion forcing you to visit a number of stores from which he gets kick backs. Luckily, I was able to curb this scam politely and decline their friendly invitations.

Zoning: Or should I say lack of zoning. To the Thais, streets, sidewalks, and alleys seem to all be used for the same thing. Motorbikes drive on sidewalks, cars park there too, and pedestrians (and their vending carts) plant themselves where ever there is space. Even the streets seem to succumb to this chaotic zoning. Streets are not always labeled, they change names at almost every intersection, and they twist and turn until North turns to South. A good map and some street-wise courage are necessities for getting from one place to another in Bangkok.

Despite Bangkok's wealth of history and tourist friendly atmosphere, there will definitely be some Thai-Ups for the novice and seasoned traveler alike.

Buddha Pest

I knew it was tell-tale when I entered the National Museum art galleries and all I saw was Buddha. True, Thailand does have an extensive tradition of art and the artifacts to prove it; but equally extensive is its display and revering of Buddha over every inch of the city!

In the United States, people take cautious measures toward tolerance of all religions and not "flaunting" one religion over another. In Bangkok, it's no holds barred. Buddha is about as omnipresent as the heat and humidity. The smell of incense fills
the streets; Buddhas of every shape and size are sold street-side; alters are set up outside of buildings and homes; and you cannot walk more than a couple blocks without seeing a Wat.

The Wats themselves do not blend seamlessly into the local architecture as churches and mosques do back home. Nope, their vibrant colors, ostentatious architecture, and gold-trimmed roofs make Wats a conspicuous ever-presence on the Bangkok skyline. And if the sheer number of Wats don't hint at Bangkok's Buddhist majority (95% of the population practices Buddhism), just enter Wat Pho and it will become clear how reverently he is regarded. Idolically reclined within its overwhelmed walls lies a 46-meter long gold-plated Buddha.

But despite the innumerable Buddhas present in every corner of Bangkok, I was still able to find 1 (yes, I only saw 1) familiar face.

Culture Shock!

You know a museum is good when the artifacts speak for themselves: no fancy displays, no state of the art lighting or audio-visuals, and maybe even a lack of air conditioning despite sweltering heat. This is exactly what I found in Bangkok. Between visiting the National Museum, the Grand Palace, and the Dusit Palace complex north of the city, the sheer number, types, sizes, and ages of artifacts on display was a complete culture shock!

The gold trimming, grandiose architecture, and mosaic tiling make a life-sized mega-artifact of the Grand Palace. Inside you'll find Hindu mythological panoramas depicting Rama's encounters with Ravana. Beautifully intricate, colorful, and expanding hundreds of meters, it's a wonder that most tourists shy away from the murals in favor of the architectural wonders surrounding them. Additionally, a to-scale representation Cambodia's (once Thailand's) Angkor Wat lies proudly amidst the the life-sized buildings of this former King's palace.

The National Museum, though humbly small, boasts an in-depth history of the Thai kingdom, a gallery full of intricately carved ivory tusks, an extensive collection of ancient Thai games, musical instruments, textiles, and art, just to name a few. Despite its size, I easily spent 2 hours here to satisfy my cultural curiosity.

But just when I thought my museum-junkie tendencies had been maxed-out, I approached the Dusit Palace complex on a whim. It is the Mecca of Thai art and history to say the least. The central attraction is Rama V's teakwood mansion (Vimanmek), the largest of its kind in the world. But its real treasures are housed in 12, 2-story wooden cottages that are scattered throughout the Dusit complex. Clocks, carriages, palanquins, money, weapons, ceramics, seashells, and hundreds of intact prehistoric pottery recovered from the Gulf of Thailand's maritime heyday. The artifacts were in impeccable condition dating back as far as 2,000 BC!

But it is not only the old and ancient you'll find here. This grandiose Throne Hall of European architecture is a showcase for the cultural initiative of Thailand's queen: the rebirth of the ancient and creation of new Thai art forms. In a setting fit for royalty, mother of pearl, gold, diamonds, jade, and even beetle wings glitter on everything from thrones to purses to plates and menu covers. It's entrancing, exalting, and overwhelming. And just when my aesthetic senses reached their limit, the less than glitzy intricacies of the wood carved murals and embroidered tapestries surprised me once again.

It is not just Thai and Southeast Asia's art and artifacts you'll see here either. Thanks to Rama V's 2 trips to Europe (he was the first Siamese monarch to do so), you see a mix of conventional European and traditional Thai everywhere you look. Thailand is obviously a country that both values and takes pride in its rich history and culture, while integrating and embracing the art of its countreymen and European counterparts alike...a true culture shock!

"Thai"na Town

Now that you've heard my sister's perspectives, here are a bit of my own:

My Bangkok hotel accommodations were located just blocks from Chinatown. And to be honest, I think the Thai do it better than the Chinese! Compared with the manicured almost Disney-esque feel you get from Singapore's Chinatown (the only person cooking on the street is an Austrian guy selling brats and pretzels!), Thai-na town is exactly how I imagine it should be: bustling streets, roadside food vendors, chaos but little crime, and curiosities at every turn.

Anything from noodles, to chicken on a stick, to shark fin and fish head is easily found on the streets and in restaurants. My "peking" duck and shrimp dumpling lunch rivaled those I've tasted in, well, "Peking." Green onions stood erect in beer mugs for "whole" eating alongside dim sum dishes. Kitchens were conveniently located in front of restaurants but behind their to-go stand counterparts servicing customers inside and out. Yes, this is the Chinatown I imagined.

But beware of relying too much on landmarks as you navigate Chinatown's serpentine streets. Things tend to transform at a seconds notice, metamorphose throughout the day, or simply relocate...shop, merchandise, and all!

But regardless of the location or mis-location of a particular "shop," rest assure you can find what you need in Bangkok's ethnic backyard. From cookware, to dried fruits, to glasses and dentures, all your trash and treasures can be found here. And when the shoppers start to drop, there are food vendors at every turn selling anything that can be grilled, boiled, fried, roasted, or dried.

With no hard and fast rules for what belongs on sidewalks and what belongs on streets, cars, people, and vending carts all vie dangerously close for positions on both. Yes, Bangkok's "Thai"na Town is my quintessential Chinatown.

SE Asia's Top 10 Under $10

I haven't been able to visit everywhere in Southeast Asia over the past 6 months. But for the places I've been lucky enough to experience, here are some highlights for the budget-minded traveler:

10. Beach-Side Massage (Boracay, Philippines): 1 hour of pure relaxation is what this entails. Waves crash a mere 10 feet from your massage bench, and the smell of coconut oil fills the air as the ladies work their magic over your entire body.

9. Beach Chair and Beer at Patong Beach (Phuket, Thailand): Day-rental beach chairs with umbrellas and cheap beer from the drug store make a day on Patong Beach both fun and affordable!

8. Dinner at Lau Pa Sat (Singapore): We all know Singaporeans love to eat. And the most popular place for good, cheap food is the local hawker centre. Chicken rice, dumplings, popiah, chicken satay, or curry fish head for the more adventurous; and if you're lucky, you may catch some live country music on the centre's stage.

7. Riding the River Ferry (Bangkok, Thailand): Don't buy the tourist day pass; for 27 Baht (about 80 cents) you can view Thai architecture, be part of the daily commuting bustle, and take in some breeze and shade while riding the length of the Chao Phraya River.

6. Posing with Parrots at the Bird Park (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia): Just a couple of dollars will get you some portraits to remember! Simply pick a couple parrots and perch them on the appendage of your choice.

5. Cambodian Kickboxing (Phnom Penh, Cambodia): If you don't mind a bit of bashing and blood, kickboxing is a no-miss in Cambodia's capitol city. Full body use to combat the opponent makes for an intense, attention grabbing sports outing.

4. Rhythm in Bronze (Singapore/Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia): This KL-based and internationally renowned musical group takes traditional Malay music to a new level. Using bronze percussion instruments of ole, it is a show not to be missed! See video

3. Feeding the Giraffes (Singapore): Don't miss feeding time at the Singapore Zoo! For about $2, you can get up close and personal with our tallest animal friends.

2. Water Puppet Show (Ha Noi, Vietnam): For less than $5, you can experience this uniquely Vietnamese folkart first-hand. A beautiful fusion of traditional music, story telling, and puppetry, the Water Puppet Show highlights Vietnamese life and legends in a way that's both intricate and entertaining.

1. Petronas Towers (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia): These picturesque towers put KL on the map, and for good reason. Towering high above the city, the white and silver-clad twins with curves to kill cause onlookers to stop and stare. It's free to enter the skybridge for a view, but only available for the early birds willing to wait in line and battle crowds for tickets.

Gentle Land, Gentle Mindset: Laos

Guest Blogger: Laura Seewoester

As we heard, Luang Prabang is undeniably beautiful. It is nestled between where the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers come together, cradled at the base of small but lovely mountains. Flowers bloom all along the streets, and the city (at least where we are) is clean and doesn't smell like urine (or maybe that was just the durian).

The people and the atmosphere here are as gentle as the scenery. Even the heat and humidity seem less stifling. Adding to the natural beauty are glittering wats at almost every turn, all bearing the orange robes of monks blowing in the wind as they hang to dry. At first you almost don't realize you are in a big tourist spot until you see all the Western style restaurants, not to mention the Westerners that crawl out in the evening. The slow pace of Laos is a refreshing break from the craziness of Bangkok and Siem Reap. All the businesses and tours close or end by 3:30, so the afternoons are spent napping or chilling with a Beer Lao.

The Lao cuisine is excellent. Traditionally, they make a series of small dishes and dips that are eaten using sticky rice (much like Ethiopian food is eaten by picking it up with the bread). Everything is fresh and flavorful. We took a cooking class, so I will be able to try my hand at it. Tomorrow we are off to ride elephants in the jungle, and then to the capital of Laos, Vientiane. I hope everyone is doing well.

Yuk yuk.

Touring the Temples of Angkor

Guest Blogger: Laura Seewoester

Crossing the land border into Cambodia was a little like walking over to Mexico but more humid, less organized, and more confusing. You immediately get that 3rd world atmosphere when seeing someone abuse their child so the crying child may pickpocket a sympathetic tourist.

Cambodia exudes desperation. You see things that break your heart; a mom begging for milk for her child, and what really gets me are the landmine victims. We haven't even seen much of the real Cambodia, as we are only staying in the tourist mecca of Siem Reap, the city by the temples of Angkor. At least here there is opportunity with the constant influx of tourists, so instead of flat out begging the children relentlessly ask if you want to purchase a postcard/book/10 bracelets for $1. Everything is also priced in USD, so they make a little on the exchange rate but for us it is pennies (and quite convenient, annoying for non-Americans). All this is centered around the Cambodian pride and joy: the temples of Angkor Wat.

The temples of Angkor is a series of Khmer temples that holds the title for largest religious building in the world. The largest temple (Angkor Wat) is massive and glorious, as is its moat. It's so big that despite the crowds it is still possible to find a little place tucked away from the people and enjoy some peace and quiet. The most interesting temple is probably Tom Prah, where the jungle has completely taken over the structures, and trees grow through and around the stone. Each temple has its own slice of history in the Khmer empire, making each one unique in construction and design (yet somehow at the end of the day, they all look the same...).

I have to say, something that is pleasantly surprising here is the food. Khmer food is similar to Thai food, but not as spicy. They have the coconut curries and some excellent blending of flavors and spices (like pumpkin and coconut). Too bad there aren't too many (or any?) Khmer restaurants in Dallas.

Unfortunately Siem Reap is all we will see of Cambodia; we will leave the "real" Cambodia for another trip. As we leave today we head to Luang Prabang, supposedly the most beautiful city in SE Asia. My camera is ready and waiting.

Prost.

Bustling Bangkok

I'm currently on a 3-week excursion across Southeast Asia. But not to worry, you'll still get your blogging fill. My sister just completed a similar trip, so the next couple of blogs will be her perceptions of the same areas you'll hear about from me once I'm return. Enjoy!

Guest Blogger: Laura Seewoester
Bangkok smells of rice paper and sewage. The streets are constantly screaming with the chugging of tuk tuk engines and sizzling fryers of street vendors. The 12 hour time difference has made the jetlag particularly grueling. We find ourselves almost unable to stay awake in the late afternoon and unable to sleep in the early morning, which turns the days into a series of second winds. Coupled with the heat, we are stuck in a perpetual daze.

The people are remarkable friendly and are not shy to approach and speak with us. From the man at the bar giving up his seat by the A/C after noting two very sweaty tourists to the stranger on the street looking to give us directions, everyone is warm and inviting. We can't help but think what is in it for them and half expect a plea for money at the end of each conversation. Was that stranger on the street in cahoots with the tuk tuk driver vying for our money down the way? One can't be sure. Maybe they are mesmerized by JP's red hair, or my big boobs (or both), maybe they just want to practice their English, or maybe it is a general obsession with all things American.

With a plethora of 7-11s, American ads, and the constant blare of American music from the radio, one can't help but think that we, as tourists, are as much a novelty to the people as the latest American fashion or hit song. They certainly know more about our culture than we can begin to understand of theirs. Regardless, the friendliness of the people make Bangkok much less intimidating for a wayward traveler.

Next we are traversing the road to Siem Reap, a route notorious for bad roads and scams. The only other alternative is a $200 one-way plane ticket on the only airline that flies there from Bangkok. Wish us luck.

Peace in the southeast.

The Price of Paradise

Our visit to Phuket was just that....paradise. Thailand's not-so-well kept secret boasts picturesque beaches, beautifully manicured resorts, and terrain that both inhibits and astounds. But despite Thailand's reputation for being a budget get-away destination, Phuket knows what it's got and flaunts it to the despise of some travelers' pocketbooks.
As my Lonely Planet guidebook puts it, "Going cheap in popular Patong is like slumming in Beverly Hills...you're sure to have hotel envy." Beer and food are cheap as are massages and souvenirs; but what you save in trinkets, pad thai, and Tsingtao you make up for in hotel fees and cab fares.

For tourist it's the wallet that feels it; but even for locals there's a price to pay for living in one of the most beautiful places on earth. It's simply dangerous. In 2004, Phuket and its residents were not spared devastation from the Sumatra-born tsunami. Popular Patong Beach was among the hardest hit. Even without underwater earthquakes wreaking havoc, drowning poses a real threat to locals and tourists alike. Over our 4-day stay, 3 drownings occurred as Phuket's notorious rip tides took unwilling victims out to sea.

Land-based activities can be equally as dangerous as the tropical climate bodes well for poisonous serpentine. My first encounter with a live cobra occurred just before we left! Even the local transportation seems anything but safe. Tuk tuks (rickshaw-like motor vehicles with no doors) drive next to vans and tour buses that plow their way along highways. The bigger and faster vehicles pay little heed to these slow-going chuggers that make their way like the little engines that could.

Phuket is paradise there is no doubt. But there's a high price to pay for a little heaven on earth.

Polite Phuket

After our 4-day jaunt on Thailand's paradise island, I came back with two orchids in my hair, a stomach full of Tom Yam Kung, and a neck cramp. Along with beautiful flowers and great food the Thai also boast the habitual "neck-bow" as a sign of sincere politeness and respect, especially upon a first encounter. And being that we were tourists in a high-end resort, the neck-bow was a constant part of our day.

Upon arrival, our hotel attendant greeted us by deliberately placing her hand together in prayer position, neck-bowing a number of times, then kneeling on the floor beside us when we looked like we were ready for business. This was not before receiving flowers from a bell boy (who bowed a couple times while discretely avoiding eye contact), being served tropical drinks by a waitress (who also neck-bowed when she approached and left), and having our bags taken to our room by another bell boy (yep, bowing the whole time). If we made eye contact with anyone as we walked down the hall, the obligatory bow would most certainly follow. Our maid would bow as she walked backward out of our room. Restaurateurs and cab drivers would neck-bow good-bye whether we accepted or rejected their offer.

When I asked our hotel cashier to break a large bill, he closed his eyes, pressed palms and fingers together, and bowed a couple of times. Shouldn't I have been the one bowing in thanks?? I even received about 10 neck-bows from a pharmacy counter attendant upon approach and departure. And really, did she have much reason to show us that much politeness? After all, we were a bit tipsy by that point and purchased 33-cent beers. Not exactly the lucrative customer.

Maybe it's because Phuket residents live in paradise that politeness can be so easy and frequent. Or maybe it's because the island economy depends on keeping high-end tourists happy for its survival. In any case, for those coming as tourists to Phuket, be prepared: it can be a real pain in the neck!