The Stories of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat's claim to fame is its status as world's largest single religious monument. Coupled with the more than 200 intact wats that surround it, this is what attracts tourists (more than 2 million every year) to Siem Reap. But if you take your time, strolling through the wats, observing the people, and spending quiet time within its walls you'll find more than exquisitely detailed Khmer architecture here. The Temples of Angkor tell a story...a story of war and strife, a story of praise and destruction, a story of life as it was and life as it is. You see, even today, the Temples of Angkor are alive and ready to reveal their truths.

It is a story history, both in its construction and destruction. The extravagance and sheer scale of its construction reflect an unprecedented prosperity in Khmer history from the 9th to 14th centuries. But many years of neglect as the Khmer empire fell left the temples vulnerable to overgrowth and erosion. And later the destructive tendencies of wars and Pol Pot's regime left many temples a mere shadow of their once held beauty.

It is a story of religion, as it unfolded and changed. In its most obvious aspect, Angkor Wat served a religious purpose dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. But even its architectural layout is symbolic of the religious beliefs of the time. Built with three main levels (bottom for laymen, middle for religious officials, and top for royalty), it is indicative of deification of kings and high regard of religion. As you look closer, however, Hindu symbolism mixes with Buddhist representations in art and sculpting telling of the Khmer religious conversion in the late 13th century.

It is a story of innovation, in both character and technique. Though using familiar architectural schemas such as roman-like cylindrical columns and towered, castle-like structures, Khmer architecture is very much its own. Intricate carvings in every wall and crevice and tiered towers in cascading cone-like shapes make Angkor Wat's facade unmistakeably unique. Even the materials used, ranging from mountain-stock sandstone to bricks processed from termite hills, reflect innovative retrieval and creation methods.

It is a story of life, both past and present. The grounds once used as the commercial, political, religious, and monarchical center is the heartbeat of present-day Siem Reap. Children come out to play within its walls when the rain lures them out. They sing, tell stories, and build sandcastles resembling the cascading towers that surround them. Tuk tuk drivers, souvenir vendors, hotel owners, and restaurateurs depend on this massive tourist attraction for their living...and quite a living it is. (The people in Siem Reap seem comparatively more prosperous than in other parts of Cambodia.) Even today, rice paddies maintain their important agricultural status as they are interspersed between wats within the complex.

For us, the wats were "discovered" by the French 200 years ago. But for Cambodians, Angkor Wat has always been there telling its stories of the past and reflecting the stories of today.

Siamese Surprises

Whether you could take Bangkok or leave Bangkok, one thing is for certain...this Siamese city is certain to surprise.

From chaos to contemporary this city always seems to change. Despite its rather unorganized infrastructure, fast (and I mean really fast) internet was easy to find. Whether it be Thailand's push to keep up with the modern or the popularity of internet gaming among Thai youth, the quality of the internet cafes were some of the best I've seen. And though Chinatown and Ko Ratanakosin seem to reflect time of ole, take one step into Siam Square and the modern will maul you. Slick contemporary architecture, the latest in fashion, and restaurants where you want to be "seen" all find their home in Bangkok's business district and surroundings.

Though Siam Square is the sure bet for guaranteed good eats, elsewhere in Bangkok diamonds in the rough await. With a humble sign pointing down a dark alley in Chinatown, some of the best Indian food I've had awaited me. And with curiosity being key, I navigated serpentine alleys only to encounter some simple street food with riverview seating...a perfect afternoon meal.

On more than one occasion, taking a wrong turn turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Between the river and my hotel were 3 blocks of continuous flower vendors. Beautifully exotic and colorful arrangements of every shape and size seized the eye of even the most banal passerby. And when I was about to throw in the towel after Bangkok's less-than-navigable streets got the best of me, just a block away and over a bridge lie the Golden Mount...a Buddhist temple with a skyline view not to be missed!

Curiosities, cuisine, and unexpected cultural shrines are just a few of the surprises Siam has in store.

Thai-Ups

As you have probably gathered from my posts, I'm in love with Thailand...well, Bangkok at least. But let's be honest. There are still some things that makes it a bit undesirable for more than a vacation commitment.

Traffic: Whether you are in the car or out, traffic can be a major pain in Thailand's capitol city. On the way to dinner one night, I sat in a cab for 45 minutes with my end-point just in sight. As the meter reached the hour mark, I finally decided to bail..an easy 15-minute walk got me to my destination. But walking presents its own set of challenges. Crosswalks are mere suggestions to the speeding cars and motorbikes, and filled-up sidewalks require you to join traffic on the street more often than vendors on the sidewalk.

Attire: Though weather is conducive to flip flops and tank tops, these are not necessarily the best choices. Flip flops, though comfortable and cool, leave unsuspecting tootsies vulnerable to soiling and injury. Puddles of mysterious substances litter streets and sidewalks and often are deep enough to submerge an unsuspecting pedestrian foot. It's also a bit more hygenic to wear covered shoes onto the water-covered floors of squat toilets (for obvious reasons). And on more than one occassion while trying to cross the street, I nearly lost a couple toes to a speeding motorbike tire.

Tank tops present their own set of challenges, too. Sunscreen is an obvious essential for exposed shoulders. But more importantly, Wats, museums, and other tourist attractions often require ladies' shoulders and knees to be covered.

Scammers: Getting scammed is the easiest way to ruin a holiday. Lucky for me I did my homework before my visit to Bangkok...the same scam was tried on me 3 times! Being overly friendly and helpful, a local Thai (often a tuk tuk driver) will inform you that the attraction you wish to see is closed. (I was told the National Museum was not open, the Grand Palace was too crowded this time of day, and the Grand Palace was closed for "Buddha Day.") Fortunately, the local is happy to assist you. He knows of all the good Wats and attractions around the city that are open and is eager to transport you. Convenient enough.

In truth, the attraction you wished to see was in fact open, and the tuk tuk driver will take you on a LONG days excursion forcing you to visit a number of stores from which he gets kick backs. Luckily, I was able to curb this scam politely and decline their friendly invitations.

Zoning: Or should I say lack of zoning. To the Thais, streets, sidewalks, and alleys seem to all be used for the same thing. Motorbikes drive on sidewalks, cars park there too, and pedestrians (and their vending carts) plant themselves where ever there is space. Even the streets seem to succumb to this chaotic zoning. Streets are not always labeled, they change names at almost every intersection, and they twist and turn until North turns to South. A good map and some street-wise courage are necessities for getting from one place to another in Bangkok.

Despite Bangkok's wealth of history and tourist friendly atmosphere, there will definitely be some Thai-Ups for the novice and seasoned traveler alike.