Nob Hill

It's no wonder that the historic Nob Hill district of San Francisco has earned the nickname "Snob Hill." Its former residents, current demographics, outstanding views, and reputation as one of the most affluent areas in this already-expensive city have helped it on its way. All kidding aside, the origin of the name "Nob Hill" still remains a mystery. Some believe the hill's knob shape inspired the name. While others claim similarity to the words "nabob" (18th century slang term for wealthy) or "nobility." Regardless of namesake, one thing is for sure. The rich and famous arrived, and stayed.

Locally know as the Big Four, the Central Pacific Railroad executives built their homes on Nob Hill once they built their fortunes. Mansions taking up city blocks; imported and rare building materials; castle-like architecture with spires and gables. Those were the 19th century homes of Stanford (as in the university), Huntington, Hopkins, and Crocker. Other former residents include the silver tycoons Flood, O'Brien, Fair, and Mackay. While the San Francisco fire of 1906 destroyed the mansions of times past, affluent visitors and residents continue to flock to reputable Nob Hill and its high-end hotels named for the city's founders (Fairmont, Intercontinental Mark Hopkins, Stanford Court, and Huntington hotels). 

But it's not just the neighborhood nor its residences, current and former, that exude the "Snob Hill" nickname.  Even its cathedral is a bit over the top. Grace Cathedral welcomes its visitors with one of the few replicas of the Gates of Paradise. Often thought to mark the beginning of the Renaissance, these doors moved away from the flatness of religious art and brought perspective into play. The cathedral itself is a monolithic stone building reminiscent of European religious grandeur. In addition to elaborate stained glass depicting more than just bible scenes (look for the spaceship in the window closest to the entrance), a large section of redwood was chosen for the altar table top. This single section is so large it could only come from a tree that was alive during the time of Christ.

While the people now living on Nob Hill belie their neighborhood's nickname, it is clear that this historic neighborhood (and its historic affluence) still thrives.

Cultural Revolution

San Francisco's Chinatown has been a centerpoint for Asian culture since the late 1800s. Only recently surpassed by New York's Chinatown for largest Chinese population outside of Asia, it has maintained its diversity, culture, language, and way of life for a century and a half. So how has Chinatown managed to resist both assimilation by its residents and gentrification by other neighborhoods? History may give us a clue...

The major influx of Chinese immigrants began in 1848. California's gold rush brought not only pioneers from east to west but enticed folks from the Far East as well. Jobs were thought to be numerous, and many Chinese intended to get rich quick then leave. With plans to return home soon, the attitude, mentality, and need to "fit in" just weren't there.

Well, we all know how this story ends. Few found gold in the rush to get rich. And like the locals, the Chinese immigrants found themselves with empty pockets and homes too far away to afford the return ticket. But the rich Chinese culture stayed as did the resistance to the American culture that surrounded them. And the minute you set foot on Portsmouth Square, you'll see exactly what I mean.

Benchsitters read Chinese newspapers, groups of men coop together for gambling matches, and English conversation seems a world away. It literally could be a square in Pick-Your-City, China. With firecrackers popping for the Chinese New Year and laundry hanging from windows and balconies, the only clue that you haven't been transported yourself are the financial district buildings peaking in the skyline.

Perhaps it's camaraderie. Perhaps it's population density (10-times San Francisco's average). Regardless, Chinatown's population has managed to maintain reminders of home. Wet markets with cheap produce and fresh fish line the sides of Stockton Street. Dim Sum and tea are the consumables of choice. And in true Chinese entrepreneurial style, the San Francisco-born tradition of Fortune Cookies (that's right, they're American-made) can be purchased and photographed for nominal fees.

Despite its proximity to San Francisco's commercial and financial centers, Chinatown's cultural revolution has managed to hold its ground for over 150 years.