As it happened, we visited Kano (and Katsina) during one of their biggest festivals of the year - the Durbar. In celebration of the end of Ramadan, the emir hosts a colorful parade of flags, music, and horsemen. Historically organized as a show of forces and undying allegiance to the emir, its modern day participants are usually high-ranking community officials and businessmen exhibiting symbolic allegiance to the king. The emir's family are often involved (the men at least) and can be identified by conspicuous "bunny ears" atop their heads.The procession proceeded much like a parade except in the round. Acrobats demonstrated their flexibility and tricks; drums, xylophones, and long pipe-like instruments provided musical entertainment; and extravagantly adorned horsemen marched to the arena center in anticipation of the emir's arrival. At its climax, the more prominent community members rushed full-speed from one arena end to the other to greet the emir himself. Clothed from head to foot and shaded by a large ornate umbrella, the emir accepts the honors then retreats to his palace for visitors.
From those living in the palace to those living in the bush, all celebrate this holiday (the Eid) with a sacrificial goat, cow, or chicken for the most impoverished. The day before festivities began, we watched Kano residents chose from among hundreds of cows the best one possible for their Sallah celebrations. We also saw goats being expertly skinned having been carefully slit at the throat in halal style, then blown up like a balloon through its hind leg for easier skinning.
The Sallah meat itself is cook, fried, and cooked again it seemed, and the final product texture is somewhere between overcooked shredded beef and beef jerky. Tasty, salty, and as dry as the Sahara desert! The Durbar, with its colorful adornments and regal procession, is an event northern Nigeria can truly claim as its own.
What did they do with the goat skins? Clothing or leather? It sounds interesting to watch, but then, ewww!!! Hoof in mouth? Someone puts the goat's leg in their mouth and blows it up? Or not?
ReplyDeleteGreat photos, Sarah! You must have been right in the middle of everything.
ReplyDeleteYep...that's how it happens. Foot in the mouth so to speak! You know, I have no idea what came of the goat skins. I didn't see anyone wearing fur clothing and not much leather either, unless it was used for stuff like saddles.
ReplyDeleteAs far as the photos go, I can't take full credit for all. Some are mine, and some are a fellow travelers who has a very good camera. We were able to sit in the Emir's private stands, though, which was great!