180 Degrees of Separation

It has been one week, Brian and I are officially settled in Singapore, and the differences between our former home and our new home....well, let's just say it's a whole different world!

Upon arrival, differences between the 2nd largest city in Africa and the city-state we would now live in became immediately apparent. We traversed a sea of never-ending tall buildings all the way from the airport to our new flat; impeccably manicured flora flanked all the roads; and everyone looked, well, American (except for obvious ethnic differences). In other words, this could have been any big, new city in the States with shopping galore and socio-economic differences not immediately apparent.

But not only did things look different, things seemed to work differently. Case in point. Obviously when a new tenant moves into an apartment, certain things must happen. Linens need to be changed, day-to-day norms need to be explained, and often there is a welcome package for those moving in. All of this was true for us in both Lagos and Singapore, but logistically they occurred in much different manners.

Just before leaving Lagos, I happened to be home when our roommate's new linens arrived. Others (a group of 4 or 5 to be exact) had come the day before but had not completed the job. This new group I encountered (only 3 this time) had the missing items and were required to remove others. After discussing for about 15 minutes what was needed, what had been dropped off, and what they were providing that day, I still didn't have a clear idea of exactly what had been removed, added, or left alone. I signed the "drop off" papers reluctantly, unclear as to what I was signing for...some of the items had been in our flat for months!

In Singapore, however, the handling of linens was taken care of by one person; and, upon a request for more towels, they magically appeared in our bathroom the next day (and every day that followed). To be fair...we did have to sign for the items in our apartment, but the list was the most exhaustive, accurate, yet understandable itemized list I had ever seen, accounting for everything from wall art to the dish drainer. And I haven't thought about our linens since.

As for our Lagos welcome package and learning the day-to-day norms of our living compound, this required "networking" for us to finally feel settled in. In Singapore, on the other hand, the welcome package was in our flat upon arrival, and routines and norms of our apartment complex were explained in detail to us an hour after we arrived.

In way, it's a bit like entering the twilight zone...coming from a place of inconsistency and few rules to a place where consistency and rules are king. But really, I think it's just 180 degree of cultural separation.

Doing Dubai

Picture Vegas with no gambling and harsh liquor laws...that was my impression of Dubai. On our way to our new home in Singapore, we took a quick jaunt through this cosmopolitan city that lies directly across the Persian Gulf from Iran.

Having only seen economic prosperity in the last 30 years and world recognition in the last 10, the city and its people exist as though they've been rich and famous for centuries. Expensive cars glide gracefully down the sunny and spotless streets; shopping caters primarily to the affluent; dressing to the nines is not requisite, it's expected. Currently there seems to be a race within the city to build the most outrageous structure imaginable. An indoor ski slope (four slopes to be exact), a building 1 kilometer in height, and a man made island in the shape of a palm tree. Yes, Dubai has it all.

But for all its glitz and glamor, there was a sense of impermanence and unreality apparent in the city...like a dream world that could morph into something entirely different or disappear the moment you wake up. And considering many of the newest and most grandiose resorts are built on man-made islands of reclaimed sand, one flick of mother nature's hand could send it all tumbling down.

So my advice to you...if you are going to visit Dubai do it soon, and do it on a stop over trip to another destination. Three days is plenty for doing Dubai.

For Better or For Worse

As our time living in Lagos comes to an end, I reflect on why I love the city so much. And I think I've finally figured it out. No matter who you are or where you come from, you must to some degree submit to the reality that is Lagos...for better or for worse.

Let's take the most obvious example: traffic. For those who enjoy the daily Lagos commute, the "go slows" take no prisoners. Most wait for crowded, un-air conditioned buses only to sit in traffic for 3 hours or more. Those lucky enough to have their own car (and possibly a driver) sit in the same traffic, though the air conditioner provides some relief for the long wait. The only way to get around traffic is by motorcycle taxi (okada)...an affordable option open to everyone.

NEPA, Nigeria's less than reliable electricity provider, also shows no favorites. Everyone is connected to NEPA and pays for its services whether they are provided or not. Those not willing to deal with 3-day electricity outages may run generators paying for the diesel themselves. And even those lucky ones not having to pay for their generator backup services become accustom to random bouts of cut electricity, lost computer work, wear on appliances, and low (or no) water pressure as a result.

Though Brian and I lived in the "Beverly Hills of Lagos," it did not mean we weren't confronted daily with the poverty that is a reality for many. In a book I read recently, the author mentioned that in Lagos poverty slaps you in the face...no matter who you are or where you come from, you can't hide from it. Unlike the States where poverty is often confined to certain areas of the city which can be easily avoided, poverty in Lagos is alive and well and on display for everyone to see.

With all its contradictions and chaos, Lagos is what it is, doesn't put on a show, and doesn't play favorites. It has beautiful beaches which are open to most everyone; it has traffic that shows no mercy for even its richest inhabitants; and the harshness of life envelopes you (though some to a higher degree than others). Lagos is unlike any other city I've known; it looks like no other city, works like no other city, and stays with you like no other city...for better or for worse.